Gibson HomeBuilders

Today’s topic is Home Design Part 2, interior, exterior and positioning of your house on the building site for the long term. My guests today are Julie Laughlin President of Laughlin Home Builders, Inc. and Connie Plevak their Designer.

Custom Designing Your Home For the Long Term

Accessible housing doesn't simply mean a house with a ramp or lift anymore. Today, the concept of universal design extends to all—old, young, tall, short, disabled, non-disabled. Today's contemporary values require personal comfort at the least—not just for people with disabilities! Words like "barrier free" and "ergonomic" are now part of the common vocabulary. 

Therefore, modifying one's home is merely customizing it. Universal design accommodates all—from small children to elderly, and it's a worthwhile consideration in the planning stages of house design if a homeowner is planning to stay in the same house after retirement. Installing lever-type door handles, for example, or wheelchair accessible entrances and bathrooms isn't any more expensive than regular knobs and doorways. 

When accessibility features are added everyone is welcome. Home modifications can accommodate everyone from persons with mobility impairments to those with vision loss, hearing loss or even cognitive or developmental disabilities. Everyone's home can be safe and comfortable. What's more, businesses catering to the disability community have exploded. From homebuilders to cabinetmakers, manufacturers of kitchen appliances to bathroom fixtures, they all offer adapted versions of their regular products. This section of our site offers basic information on accessibility in the home, but is by no means comprehensive. Books on any number of related topics exist today, as well as organizations and Web sites that assist people to live independently.

Fall Prevention Home Modifications

General Areas

Create color contrasts between walls and floors; lighter-colored floor surfaces are preferable.
Minimize changes in walking surfaces, and use slip-resistant coverings such as rough tile and carpet with short, dense pile.
Increase lighting and reduce the contrasts in lighted areas.
Install wall-mounted light fixtures, accessible while standing on the floor, that use two bulbs.
Install more outlets to minimize the use of extension cords.
Relocate switches so that the homeowner doesn't have to walk through darkened areas.
Modify all small changes in levels, especially single steps.
Stairways
Install handrails on both sides of the stairs and extend them one foot beyond the last step at both top and bottom; position top of the railing at elbow height of the homeowner.
Use handrails that allow the homeowner to use a "power-grip," i.e., encircle their thumb and fingers around it, and allow hand clearance between the handrail and the wall.
Mark the nose of each tread with a contrasting color; paint is a good marking agent.
Use a different color contrast to mark the first and last step.
Limit stair rise to seven inches; make tread at least 11 inches.
Use incline risers with 15-degree angles.
Remove thick (3/8 inch or thicker) carpets and under-pads on treads.
Bathroom
Securely install grab-bars* in tub/shower and near toilet at height and angle best suited for homeowner's needs; tubs/showers typically require two bars positioned for support when entering and exiting, respectively.
Install slip-resistant tile.
Increase door width to 36 inches for homeowners with wheelchairs or walkers.

Bathroom Modifications
Once the doorway to the bathroom is made wide enough to allow a wheelchair to pass through, he or she needs to be able to move around freely and close it. This is achieved by making the door swing out from the bathroom. This way they can enter and close the door behind them. It may be necessary to reposition an existing sink or remove the bathtub in favor of a roll-in/walk-in shower. (These are more expensive options, but less expensive than tearing down walls or moving.)
The vanity for the sink can be replaced with a smaller one and the door of the vanity can be removed to provide knee space for a seated person. Vanities can be raised for someone having difficulty bending over or lowered to accommodate a seated person. If you have several people living in your home, decide on a compromised height. Toilet height is also important: if the toilet is too low, it's difficult for many people to lower themselves down to it or to get back up. Toilets that are too high are difficult to reach. This can be remedied with portable toilet seats. Many different styles and types are available, as well as safety straps and other aids. Grab bars should be screwed directly into wall studs on either side of the toilet and in the bathing area. Molly bolts or screws in sheetrock are not adequate. Grab bars should support a maximum of 250 pounds. If the person weighs over 200 pounds, the wall studs must be further reinforced. Grab bars help a person transfer on and off the toilet and negotiate the bathing area. Sheltering arm grab bars provide additional balance and thus may be more appropriate. Sheltering arm grab bars are firmly secured to the toilet to surround both sides of the toilet and have legs that reach the floor. Make sure to place anti-slip rubber decals on the bathtub or shower floor to prevent slips and falls. Small bathroom rugs are dangerous and should be avoided completely. A hand-held shower will bring the water down to a comfortable level. It's also possible to install a stand or adjustable pole to free up the bather's hands. Shower chairs or benches come in many styles for the bather who needs to remain seated, transfers out of a wheelchair, or has poor balance. Bathtub lifts are also available through catalogs, the Internet, and medical supply stores, however most of them require another person to assist. Last of all, single-lever faucets are easiest to use for weak hands or hands with decreased sensitivity. When skin has decreased sensitivity, an anti-scald device should also be installed in both the bathtub/shower and bathroom sink.

Entrances, Exits and Doorways
Of course getting in and out of your front door is the first and most important consideration. If you can get through all doors, interior and exterior, plus the bathroom door, you're well on your way. Most of us have to make the most of what we already have, so unless you're building a brand new home, modifying existing doorways to make more room is the easiest solution for wheelchair accessibility.
Here are some guidelines:
A doorway must be at least 36 inches wide to accommodate a wheelchair, allowing room for arms and maneuvering. Doorstops can be removed, as well as thick thresholds that are difficult to roll over. In some places, it may be necessary to remove the door altogether, including its hinges. Typically bathroom doors are the narrowest; a curtain or decorative screen will provide privacy, as well as access to the room. Locks on doors can be lowered for a person in a wheelchair to comfortably reach it.

If manual dexterity is a problem, a lever is much easier to use than a regular doorknob. Better yet, install an electromagnetic automatic door opener. Automatic door openers can be used with all door types, including sliding or swinging doors and they do lock.

Avoid thick doormats, like the contemporary bristly-style mats. Children trip over them and they're hazardous to persons with walking difficulties, and persons with visual impairments. They're particularly difficult for a wheelchair to roll over. A thin, rubber mat is safer and still traps some dirt and moisture. Once inside, thinner carpeting (even indoor/outdoor carpeting), tiles, or linoleum is easiest for wheelchair maneuverability. A view panel installed in the door (away from the lock) provides a couple of safety features: it allows a person with a hearing loss to visually identify visitors, and from the outside, warns approaching persons to slow down when they see a seated person just inside the door.

Kitchen Remodeling
You may not have to face the expense and stress of remodeling—first check out some of the tricks described below. One of them may open up your kitchen for you. Whatever your situation is, whether your physical agility has changed or you've just moved to an inaccessible space, these tips can help: If you have a wheelchair, the doorway must be a minimum of 36 inches wide—measure the width of your chair so you'll know what you have. If you want to keep the door to the kitchen, buy Swing Clear® hinges at your hardware store. They will give you a couple more inches of room. If the only way into the kitchen is up or down stairs, it may be possible to ramp it if it's not too steep. Electrical outlets and light switches can be easily relocated by an electrician and lighting can be enhanced by adding track or overhead fixtures, or a portable desk lamp on the counter. Since cabinets are expensive to replace, removing a cabinet door below the sink or counter will provide knee space so you can work from a seated position. Just remember to insulate the pipes below the sink to prevent scalding legs. Store cabinet doors in a safe place with their hardware taped to them. Use turntables inside cabinets to give you access to the whole cabinet. A simple Rubbermaid disk that turns is only a couple of dollars. It may be necessary to replace the cabinets with lower ones. Although costly, this may be all you need to make the kitchen useable. Vertically adjustable models can be raised and lowered; rollout shelves are much more useful within any cabinet. If you are going to replace your cabinets, the new ones should be placed high enough to allow toe space for wheelchair footrests. Cabinets may also be reinstalled higher to accommodate someone tall or unable to bend down. A cook-top range is the most versatile option, especially when the space below is kept free for leg space, rather than putting a cabinet there to store pots and pans. Be sure to see Kitchen Accessibility Basics, as well as Large Appliances Update

Grab Bars


For anyone needing help getting up from the toilet, in and out of the tub, or even just getting from one thing to another, grab bars will provide the extra leverage, balance, and support you need. They can be installed horizontally or vertically, depending on what works best in any given space, and they come in a wide variety of colors to match bathroom décor. Grab bars must bear up to 250 lbs. and must be mounted snugly into wall studs because sheet rock will not hold for long, eventually the grab bars tear away from the wall, causing someone a bad fall. If it's not possible to secure grab bars into wall studs, six to 12-inch plywood boards can be used to reinforce the walls before screwing in the grab bars. Food for thought: handrails may be added throughout the living space to help steady an unsteady person while moving around.

Typical Kitchen Layouts

These kitchen layouts work best for cooks in wheelchairs or cooks who can't walk far. The layouts provide users with the most efficient use of space.
An L-Shaped Kitchen is perhaps the user-friendliest, especially if the kitchen space flows right into the dining area. You'll get maximum floor area with the least amount of walking or rolling.


The U-Shaped Kitchen has two parallel walls connected by one short one that usually houses the fridge. If you're in the center of a u-shaped kitchen, almost everything is continently located on either side of you.


The Galley Kitchen is designed with two parallel walls, similar to the u-shaped kitchen. A third wall, if any, is short and serves only to connect the other two. Providing there is enough free space in the middle (at least a 60 inch diagonal turn-around space for wheelchairs), everything is reachable from the left or right.

What You Should Consider If You Plan To Live In Your House For The Rest Of Your Life

Exterior
Low-maintenance exterior (vinyl, brick, concrete composite siding and trim)
Low-maintenance shrubs and plants
Deck, patio or balcony surfaces are no more than ½ inch below interior floor level.
Overall Floor Plan
Main living on a single story, including full bath
No steps between rooms/areas on the same level
5-foot by 5-foot clear/turn space in living area, kitchen, a bedroom and a bathroom
Hallways
Minimum of 42 inches wide, the wider the better and well lit.
Entry
Accessible path of travel to the home
At least one no-step entry with a cover
Sensor light at exterior no-step entry focusing on the front-door lock
There needs to be 32 inches of clear width, which requires a 36-inch door
Non-slip flooring in foyer
Entry door sidelight or high/low peep hole viewer; sidelight should provide both privacy and safety.
Doorbell in accessible location
Surface to place packages on when opening door
Thresholds
Flush preferable
Exterior maximum of ½ inch beveled
Interior maximum of ¼ inch
Interior Doors
There needs to be 32 inches of clear width, which requires a 36-inch door
Levered door hardware
Windows
Plenty of windows for natural light
Lowered windows or taller windows with lower sill height
Low maintenance exterior and interior finishes
Easy to operate hardware
Garage or Carport
Covered carports and boarding spaces
Wider than average carports to accommodate lifts on vans
Door heights may need to be 9 feet to accommodate some raised roof vans
5-foot minimum access aisle between accessible van and car in garage
If code requires floor to be several inches below entrance to house for fume protection, can slope entire floor from front to back to eliminate need for ramp or step
Ramp to doorway if needed
Handrail if steps
Faucets
Lever handles or pedal-controlled
Thermostatic or anti-scald controls
Pressure balanced faucets
Kitchen and Laundry
Counters
Wall support and provision for adjustable and/or varied height counters and removable base cabinets
Upper wall cabinetry - 3 inches lower than conventional height
Accented stripes on edge of countertops to provide visual orientation to the workspace
Counter space for dish landing adjacent to or opposite all appliances
Base cabinet with roll out trays and lazy Susan’s
Pull-down shelving
Glass-front cabinet doors
Open shelving for easy access to frequently used items
Appliances
Easy to read controls
Washing machine and dryer raised 12 to 15 inches above floor
Front-loading raised laundry machines
Microwave oven at counter height or in wall
Side-by-side refrigerator/freezer
Side-swing or wall oven
Raised dishwasher with pushbutton controls
Electric cook top with level burners for safety in transferring between the burners, front controls and downdraft feature to pull heat away from user; light to indicate when surface is hot
Miscellaneous
30-inch by 48-inch clear space at appliances or 60-inch diameter clear space for turns
Multi-level work areas to accommodate cooks of different heights
Open under-counter seated work areas
Placement of task lighting in appropriate work areas
Loop handles for easy grip and pull
Pull-out spray faucet; levered handles
In multi-story homes, laundry chute or laundry facilities in master bedroom
Bathroom
Wall support and provision for adjustable and/or varied height counters and removable base cabinets
Contrasting color edge border at countertops
At least one wheelchair maneuverable bath on main level with 60-inch turning radius or acceptable T-turn space and 36-inch by 36-inch or 30-inch by 48-inch clear space
Bracing in walls around tub, shower, shower seat and toilet for installation of grab bars to support 250 - 300 pounds
If stand-up shower is used in main bath, it is curbless and minimum of 36 inches wide
Bathtub - lower for easier access
Fold down seat in the shower
Adjustable/ handheld showerheads, 6-foot hose
Tub/Shower controls offset from center
Shower stall with built-in antibacterial protection
Light in shower stall
Toilet 2 ½ inches higher than standard toilet (17 to 19 inches) or height-adjustable
Design of the toilet paper holder allows rolls to be changed with one hand
Wall-hung sink with knee space and panel to protect user from pipes
Slip-resistant flooring in bathroom and shower
Stairways, Lifts and Elevators
Adequate hand rails on both sides of stairway, 1 ¼-inch diameter
Increased visibility of stairs through contrast strip on top and bottom stairs, color contrast between treads and risers on stairs and use of lighting
Multi-story homes may provide either pre-framed shaft (ie. stacked closets) for future elevator, or stairway width must be minimum of 4 feet to allow space for lift
Residential elevator or lift
Ramps
Slope no greater than 1 inch rise for each 12 inches in length, adequate handrails
5-foot landing provided at entrance
2-inch curbs for safety
Storage
Adjustable closet rods and shelves
Lighting in closets
Easy open doors that do not obstruct access
Electrical, Lighting, Safety and Security
Light switches by each entrance to halls and rooms
Light receptacles with at least 2 bulbs in vital places (exits, bathroom)
Light switches, thermostats and other environmental controls placed in accessible locations no higher than 48 inches from floor
Electrical outlets 15 inches on center from floor; may need to be closer than 12 feet apart
Clear access space of 30 inches by 48 inches in front of switches and controls
Rocker or touch light switches
Audible and visual strobe light system to indicate when the doorbell, telephone or smoke or CO2 detectors have been activated
High-tech security/intercom system that can be monitored, with the heating, air conditioning and lighting, from any TV in the house
Easy-to-see and read thermostats
Pre-programmed thermostats
Flashing porch light or 911 switch
Direct wired to police, fire, and EMS (as option)
Home wired for security
Home wired for computers
Flooring
Smooth, non-glare, slip-resistant surfaces, interior and exterior
If carpeted, use low (less than ½ inch high pile) density, with firm pad
Color/texture contrast to indicate change in surface levels
Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning
HVAC should be designed so filters are easily accessible
Energy efficient units
Windows that can be opened for cross ventilation, fresh air
Energy Efficient Features
In-line framing with 2 by 6 studs spaced 24-inch on center
Air-barrier installation and sealing of duct work with mastic
Reduced-size air conditioning units with gas furnaces
Mechanical fresh air ventilation, installation of air returns in all bedrooms and use of carbon monoxide detectors
Installation of energy efficient windows with Low-E glass
Reduced Maintenance/Convenience Features
Easy to clean surfaces
Central vacuum
Built-in pet feeding system
Built-in recycling system
Video phones
Intercom system
Other Ideas
Separate apartment for rental income or future caregiver
Flex room that can used as a nursery or playroom when the children are young and as a home office later; if combined with a full bath, room could also be used for an aging parent/aging in place