Gibson HomeBuilders

Today’s topic is Universal Home Design.

My guest today is Jean Gibson, Vice President of Gibson Home Builders, Inc.
What is Universal Design?
When veterans came home from World War II they were different than when they left. They had seen things they couldn't forget. They had wounds that needed healing. And many of them had disabilities that they would have to live with for the rest of their lives.
These men and women got our attention. They had served our country when we needed them the most. Now they needed our help to go on with their lives.
Everyone tried to help. Families gave love and support. The government offered health and other benefits. Even architects did their part. They began looking for new ways to design homes so people with disabilities could live with dignity.
"Barrier-free" homes had their problems, at first many of them were ugly. So, most people didn't want to live in them. As a result, builders didn't construct many of them. That made accessible homes hard to find. If you could find one, you probably couldn't afford it.
It's taken many years, but housing designers have found a better way. It's called "universal design." Homes that have universal design features look like other homes. But they are much easier to use.
Universal design is getting popular for two reasons.
First, it looks nice. People with disabilities don't feel like they are settling for an ugly house. And people who don't have disabilities think that universal homes look and work much better than the old models.
Second, more people want universal housing. This means that the old ways of designing homes just don't work anymore. We all want more comfort in our homes. Opening doors with arms full of groceries is as difficult at 30 as it is at 70. People live longer than they used to. More of us are living with disabilities. The traditional home that serves you well when you are healthy won't always take care of you when you break a leg or hurt your back. Younger people want a home that will take care of them when they are sick or injured. People now realize that they need homes that will grow old with them. The 82 year old still wants to live in her own home. She just needs a home that allows her to do it. That's where universal design comesin.
Features for Today
What makes a home "universal"? It's simple. Everyone can use universal design! It doesn't matter if you are young or old. You could be short or tall, healthy or ill. You might have a disability. Or you may be a prize-winning athlete. Because of universal design, people who are very different can all enjoy the same home. And that home will be there for all its inhabitants even when their needs change.
Here are some of the more common universal design features:
1) No-step entry. No one needs to use stairs to get into a universal home or into the home's main rooms.
2) One-story living. Places to eat, use the bathroom and sleep are all located on one level, which is barrier-free.
3) Wide doorways. Doorways that are 32-36 inches wide let wheelchairs pass through. They also make it easy to move big things in and out of the house.
4) Wide hallways. Hallways should be 36-42 inches wide. That way, everyone and everything moves more easily from room to room.
5) Extra floor space. Everyone feel less cramped. And people in wheelchairs have more space to turn.
6)
Features for Comfort
Some universal design features just make good sense. Once you bring them into your home, you'll wonder how you ever lived without them. For example:
1) Floors and bathtubs with non-slip surfaces help everyone stay on their feet. They're not just for people who are frail. The same goes for handrails on steps and grab bars in bathrooms.
2) Thresholds that are flush with the floor make it easy for a wheelchair to get through a doorway. They also keep others from tripping.
3) Good lighting helps people with poor vision. And it helps everyone else see better, too.
4) Lever door handles and rocker light switches are great for people with poor hand strength. But others like them too. Try using these devices when your arms are full of packages. You'll never go back to knobs or standard switches.
5)
Features for Later
Universal design gives you great home feature you can enjoy now.It also helps you plan for the future. Take closets for example. When you build a closet, add some adjustable brackets. Later on,you can use those brackets to move clothing rods and shelves to a better height. This tiny investment helps a closet grow along with a child. It also means you can use the closet even if you start using a wheelchair. This kind of planning can help you make sure every part of your home will adapt to your changing needs.
Fixing Hard-to-Use Homes
You may have your own ideas about universal design features that could help you. Take a good look around your home. Make a list of the things that bug you. Tired of bending to plug in the iron? Sick of stretching to reach your favorite platter? Can't stand carrying laundry to the basement? Don't worry. Follow the links on the left side of this screen. You'll find out that there are easier and safer ways to carry out your daily activities. Universal design can help. Give it a try!

SITE PLANNING AND LANDSCAPING

ESSENTIALS:
1) Main floor at ground level, ideally with no steps or ramps needed to enter. At a minimum, one entrance should be at ground level.
2) Maintenance-free exterior and trim.
3) Level walkways with little or no slope. Any slope should be very gradual, no more than 1 inch of rise per 20 inches of walkway.
4) Trees, shrubs, and plants that require little maintenance (raking, pruning, watering, mowing).
5) All walkways at least 36 inches wide.

WORTH CONSIDERING:
1) Passive or active solar heating. Example: Plenty of south-facing windows to capture sunlight in winter.
2) Garden planters at convenient heights, and raised beds for flowers and vegetables.
3) South-facing walkways (and ramps, if any) to encourage snow melt.

GENERAL FLOOR PLAN

ESSENTIALS:
1) Kitchen, bath, laundry, and at least one sleeping room (no smaller than 12 feet by 12 feet) on the main floor. The sleeping room can be used for different purposes at different times: den, office, playroom, etc.
2) Open floor plan (avoid long, narrow hallways; consider larger open areas without sharp boundaries between rooms, such as a kitchen/dining/ family room area).

WORTH CONSIDERING:
1) Weight of the building resting on external walls of the home, avoiding “load-bearing” inside walls. This allows walls between rooms to be moved much more easily and inexpensively to change the layout.
2) Closets “stacked” over each other in a multi-story home, to allow for future installation of an elevator or lift (allow at least 60 inches by 60 inches for elevator)

ENTRANCE

ESSENTIALS:
1) Door at least 36 inches wide, to allow for a 34-inch clear opening when the door is open at a right angle.
2) No split-level entry.
3) Porch floor, stoop, or landing at the same level as the floor inside the home (no step up or step down to enter home).
4) Door locks that are easy to operate, such as keyless locks with a remote control or keypad.
5) Lever-style door handles (not round doorknobs).
6) Peepholes at heights for adults, children, and people using a wheelchair; or sidelights (tall, narrow window along one or both sides of the door).
7) Good lighting both inside and outside the entrance.
8) No raised threshold – much easier for strollers, wheelchairs, rolling luggage, etc., and reduces the risk of tripping.
9) A roof, canopy, or awning to protect the entrance from rain and snow (essential when you have no raised threshold under the door).
10) Ample landing space both outside and inside the entry door (5 feet by 5 feet for the outside landing). The outside landing should be set off to the side (on the handle edge of the door) to be out of the way of the door swing.

WORTH CONSIDERING:
1) Lighted doorbell.
2) Intercom system (can be connected to your regular telephone or to a special speaker).
3) Handy shelf outside the door (such as on the porch railing) to set down items while you open the door.
4) House number in large, simple, color-contrast lettering easily visible from the sidewalk and street.
5) Push-button power door (works great when your hands are full).

KITCHEN

ESSENTIALS:
1) Enough clear counter space to set down dishes next to all appliances and cupboards.
2) Plenty of open floor space to maneuver around the kitchen.
3) Anti-scald faucet with a single lever (not two knobs or two handles to
turn on and off).
4) Counters and other work surfaces at two or more different heights.
5) Rounded corners, not sharp edges, on counters.
6) Open space under the sink to allow for a seated user (be sure to insulate pipes to avoid burns), with flooring material laid all the way to the wall under the sink.
7) Raised platform under dishwasher to reduce bending and kneeling.
Storage can be incorporated in the platform. Dishwasher height should be determined by the comfort levels of those who use it most, and by what makes sense in the kitchen work flow.
8) Appliance controls that are easy to read, easy to reach, and can be operated by touch as well as sight.
9) Easy access to kitchen storage (pull-out shelves, lazy susans in corner cupboards, adjustable-height cupboards).
10) Good task lighting over sink, stove, and other work areas.

WORTH CONSIDERING:
1) Pullout work boards in strategic locations, such as near the oven, refrigerator, and microwave.
2) Pantry-type closet with rollout shelving.
3) Sink with the drain placed toward the back, rather than in the middle, so that the pipes below the sink are less in the way for storage or for a seated user.
4) Some electrical switches and outlets placed at front edge of lower cabinets (just under counter) for easier access. (Be sure to use childproof outlets.)
5) Stove or cook-top with controls in the front.
6) Extra outlets for small appliances, electronics, etc.

BATHROOM

ESSENTIALS:
1) Door 36 inches wide, to allow for a 34-inch clear opening when the door is open at a right angle.
2) Ample floor space for maneuvering between bathroom fixtures.
Allow at least 30 inches by 48 inches of clear floor space among the fixtures; 60 inches by 60 inches is ideal. (If your shower entrance has no raised threshold, the shower floor can provide part of the clear
maneuvering space.)
3) Walk-in shower with little or no threshold or lip to step over – ideally no more than 1/2 inch, and beveled to provide a tiny “ramp” rather than
a tripping obstacle. Slope the shower floor a maximum of 1/8 inch per foot. (Alternatively, design a bathroom closet that can be converted to a walk-in shower, or place the tub in such a way that it can later be replaced with a walk-in shower.)
4) Shower size: Minimum 36 by 36 inches; for a roll-in shower, allow 36 inches by 60 inches.
5) Adjustable-height, handheld showerhead, with controls that are conveniently placed and easy to operate.
6) Properly reinforced grab bars in the bath and shower,and at least reinforced walls to allow for grab bars near the toilet.
7) Anti-scald faucet with a single-lever handle, for both the sink and the tub or shower.
8) Clearance under the sink to allow for a seated user, with flooring material extended into the open area under the sink. (Be sure to insulate pipes to prevent burns.)
9) Rounded corners, not sharp edges, on bathroom counters.
10) Toilet seat height appropriate for the household – 17 to 19 inches high for middle-age and older people, lower for children.
11) Mirror(s) placed for both standing and sitting, such as a full-length or tilting mirror.
12) Good-quality, non-glare lighting.

WORTH CONSIDERING:
1) Shower seat or platform, either built in or freestanding (handy for washing feet and shaving legs, as well as for people with limited strength or mobility).
2) Pocket (sliding) door to save the “swing space” needed for a hinged door.
3) Telephone jack in the bathroom, to call for help in case of a fall.
4) Rollout or pullout storage shelves in cabinets, to minimize kneeling and bending.
5) Bathroom counters at two different heights, or an adjustable-height surface.
6) Bathroom sink with a side-mounted faucet, easier for children and many others to reach.
7) Adjustable-height “power sink,” or two sinks at different heights.
8) Sink with the drain placed toward the back, rather than in the middle, so that the pipes below the sink are less in the way for storage or for a seated user.
9) Heat lamp (for comfort), usually installed in the ceiling.

LAUNDRY

ESSENTIALS:
1) Laundry area on main floor, near the bathroom and bedrooms.
(If laundry is in the basement initially, make provisions that would allow relocating it to the main floor – an easily adaptable space with electrical and plumbing connections.)
2) Good task lighting in the laundry work area.
3) Appliance controls that are easy to reach and operate, ideally at the front of the appliance.

WORTH CONSIDERING:
1) Front-loading washer and dryer, placed on raised platforms to reduce bending and kneeling.
2) Stacked washer-dryer.
3) Portable washer on main floor (can attach to kitchen sink).
4) Folding table, attached to the wall, that lies flat when not in use.

BEDROOMS

ESSENTIALS:
1) Doors 36 inches wide, to allow for a 34-inch clear opening.
2) Ample maneuvering space after all furniture is in the room – at least
36 inches on both sides of the bed,and ideally 60 inches on one side of the bed.
3) Light switches reachable from the bedside and the door, and located about 36 inches to 40 inches above the floor.
4) Telephone jack near the bed.
5) Extra electrical outlets near the bed (for medical equipment or rechargeable
items, for example), placed 18 inches to 24 inches above the floor.
6) Closet rods reachable from a seated or standing position, or adjustable- height rods.

LIVING AND DINNING AREAS

ESSENTIALS:
1) Large enough to accommodate normal furnishings and allow easy maneuvering around them.
2) Easy passage from kitchen to dining area.
3) Avoid changes in floor levels or floor material (such as vinyl to carpet) to prevent tripping while carrying food and drink.

WORTH CONSIDERING:
1) Extra electrical outlets to accommodate possible future needs, such as new home technology.

CLOSETS AND STORAGE

ESSENTIALS:
1) Heights and layout easily accessible for all household members.
2) Well-lit, with a switch located outside the storage area.
3) Adjustable-height shelving and closet rods.
4) Doors and handles that are easy to operate. (Avoid bi-fold or accordion-type doors.)

GARAGE

ESSENTIALS:
1) Ample room for maneuvering strollers, lawn mowers, bicycles, wheelchairs, etc. around the vehicle(s). Provide at least a 3-foot clear path around and between all vehicles.
2) Paved driveway.
3) Easy pathway from garage to home entrance (no steps to climb, all walkways at least 36 inches wide).

WORTH CONSIDERING:
1) Garage attached to home with a direct (no-step) entrance to home.
2) Garage door tall enough to accommodate higher vehicles (such as a van with a chairlift) – an extra 18 to 24 inches compared to most standard doors.
3) Sheltered walkway to the house, protected from rain and snow.

DOORWAYS AND HALLWAYS

ESSENTIALS:
1) Wide, spacious hallways and doorways for moving furniture as well as for maneuvering a wheelchair or walker.
2) Hallways at least 36 inches wide; 42 inches is recommended.
3) All doors 36 inches wide to allow for a 34-inch clear opening when the door is open 90 degrees.
4) Lever-type door handles (not round doorknobs).

WORTH CONSIDERING:
1) Pocket (sliding) doors instead of swing doors, wherever possible.
2) “Swing-clear” hinges that add a little more maneuvering room by moving the door completely out of the doorway.

FLOORS

ESSENTIALS:
1) Single level – no sunken floors or split levels.
2) No change of levels between rooms. If there must be a threshold between
two different flooring surfaces, make it very low and beveled.
3) If there must be a step up or down, mark it well with a highly visible, color-contrast material at the edge.
4) Non-slip flooring throughout the house, especially in the bathroom, kitchen, and laundry.
5) Carpeting that is sturdy, low-pile, and tightly woven (such as berber style).
6) Eliminate throw rugs, to minimize the risk of tripping.

WORTH CONSIDERING:
1) For wheelchairs, carpeting should be continuously glued to the floor, ideally with no padding.
2) For wheelchairs, highly durable flooring (stone or ceramic tile) holds up best.

WINDOWS

ESSENTIALS:
1) Energy-efficient windows that are easy to open, close, and lock, and require little strength to use. (Crank handles are a good choice.)
2) Placement at a height that allows people to see outdoors while seated or standing – with the windowsills about 24 inches to 30 inches above the floor.

WORTH CONSIDERING:
1) Tilt-in windows that allow easy cleaning of both sides.
2) Screens that are lightweight and simple to remove and replace, ideally from the inside.

STAIRS

ESSENTIALS:
1) Sturdy handrails on both sides of all stairways, whether inside or outside of the home. For round rails, the usual size is 11/4 to 11/2 inches in diameter.
2) Stair treads deep enough for the entire foot – at least 8 inches, but 10 to
11 inches is better.
3) Stair rise no higher than 7 inches from one step to the next; a smaller rise is even better.
4) No carpeting on stairs, to reduce the risk of slipping. If carpeting is installed, use a tight weave and no padding.
5) No open risers (open spaces between each step)
6) Steps with no “nosing” (in other words, the tread should not extend out beyond the riser) to minimize the risk of tripping.
7) All stairways well lit, with a light switch at the top and bottom. (Light switches about 36 inches to 40 inches above the floor.)
8) Anti-slip strips on front edge of steps, in color-contrast material. the riser, causing a trip hazard.

WORTH CONSIDERING:
1) Straight, continuous stairway, with no turns or curves, for cheaper and easier installation of a chairlift if needed later.
2) Stairway at least 4 feet wide to allow for a future chairlift.

ELECTRICAL OUTLETS AND CONTROLS

ESSENTIALS:
1) Light switches placed about 36 inches to 40 inches above the floor.
2) Large rocker-style switches that are easy to turn on and off.
3) Electrical outlets placed about 18 inches to 24 inches above the floor, to minimize the need for bending down.
4) Thermostat and other controls placed about 48 inches above the floor.
5) Thermostat and control panels that are easy to read and simple to operate (check accessible equipment stores or web sites).
6) Telephone, cable, and modem jacks placed about 18 inches above the floor.
7) Circuit breaker panel on the main floor and easy to access, perhaps in the laundry area.

WORTH CONSIDERING:
1) Lighted switches that are visible in the dark.
2) Slide plates on outlets, to childproof the outlet when not in use.
3) Motion-activated lighting that automatically turns on when someone enters the room.
4) Switched outlets so that floor lamps and table lamps can be turned on
and off with a wall switch.
5) Plenty of electrical outlets for current or future equipment (placed 18 inches to 24 inches above the floor).
6) Programmable thermostat to save energy at night or when you are not at home.
7) “Zoned” heating and cooling, with separate thermostats for different
parts of the house, to conserve energy while keeping the temperature comfortable where you are.
8) Visible and audible alarms on smoke detectors and carbon monoxide detectors.